The Mandarin Oriental Ritz Madrid is one of Europe's great palace hotels — a 1910 building on the Plaza de la Lealtad whose renovation by Rafael Moneo is considered among the finest architectural restorations of the modern era. Quique Dacosta arrived in 2020 as its chef and immediately raised an already extraordinary address to a new register. Deessa — the name means "goddess" in Valencian — became the city's definitive grand dining destination within two years of opening.
The setting is overwhelming in the best possible sense. The Alfonso XIII dining room, where Deessa's main service takes place, occupies a soaring space of gilded mouldings and period detail that belongs to a world of pre-war European glamour. Tables are well-spaced, candles are properly deployed, and the Ritz Garden — a terrace framed by manicured hedges and offering views of the Retiro — is available for summer service and remains one of the most spectacular dining terraces in the world.
Dacosta offers two menus — Historical and Contemporary — both served at lunch and dinner. The Historical traces the evolution of his cooking from his formative years at Denia's Quique Dacosta Restaurante (three Michelin stars, regularly listed among Europe's greatest tables); the Contemporary presents his current direction in Madrid. Both are lengthy affairs — 12 to 14 courses with amuse-bouche sequences of considerable wit and refinement — and both reward the full allocation of time and attention they request.
The cooking itself reflects Dacosta's Mediterranean origins: a profound respect for the sea, an instinct for acidity and salinity, and a visual sensibility that makes each plate look as though it were designed by someone who studied painting before they picked up a knife. The rice preparations, informed by decades in Valencia, are among the finest expressions of that tradition available in the capital.