#13 in New York CitySteakhouse$$$Midtown, Garment DistrictEst. 1885
Order the $68 mutton chop, not the steak — Keens has sold this 1885 saddle of lamb since before your firm existed; book it to close a deal.
8Food
9Ambience
7Value
About Keens Steakhouse
Here is the heresy: at the best old steakhouse in New York, you should not order steak. You should order the mutton chop. Keens opened at 72 West 36th Street in 1885, and the chop, a 26oz saddle of lamb roasted and carved for about $68, has been the signature since the first night. It is the one thing on the menu you cannot get at any other steakhouse in the city, which is the entire reason to come.
The ceiling carries 90,000 clay churchwarden pipes, claimed by name over the decades by Babe Ruth, Albert Einstein, General Douglas MacArthur and Buffalo Bill Cody. Lillie Langtry sued the house in 1905 for refusing to serve women, won, and her pipe still hangs. None of this is staging. The building has not moved and the room has not been redecorated into a theme, which is rarer in this city than any Michelin star.
Executive chef Bill Rodgers runs a broiler hotter than anything you own, and the beef is genuinely good: bone-in prime rib, a 28oz porterhouse, steaks from $75 to $177. But good beef is the easy part of New York. A dozen rooms cook a porterhouse this well for the same money. What they cannot sell you is the chop, the pipes and 1885, so spend your order on what is singular here and the bill earns its keep.
There are several dining rooms, the main floor plus the Bull Moose and Lincoln rooms, each its own pocket of the building. The bourbon list is deep and chosen for people who know what they are pouring, and the cellar holds back vintages the restaurant was smart enough to buy decades ago. Service is brisk, old-school, and refreshingly unbothered by trend.
Why Keens for Closing a Deal
Keens is where New York's deal class goes when the occasion calls for weight, not elegance. Book the Lincoln Room, order a bottle worth the gesture and the chop carved at the table, and the meeting takes on a seriousness that a six-month-old restaurant cannot fake. Choosing Keens tells a client you have been around long enough to know the difference. For the right counterpart, that reads louder than a Michelin star.
Why Keens for a Team Dinner
Keens handles groups with the confidence of 140 years of doing exactly this. The dining rooms take parties of ten to forty-eight, and the carved roasts, prime rib and the mutton chop for those who know, give a table something to share rather than eat in parallel. The noise stays civil enough for a speech, and nobody leaves hungry. This is where you take a team that has earned a real night out.
Not For
Not for a vegetarian, and not for anyone hunting modern, plated cooking. Keens is red meat, brown liquor and a 19th-century chophouse room that has barely changed the menu in a century because it does not want to. If you want vegetables treated as the main event or a tasting menu with tweezers, this is the wrong address; try Gramercy Tavern instead.